McCall's 5787 Top

I have this problem

 If I make a pattern and it's not good enough or good at all, I can't leave it alone, I have to MASTER the pattern.  It will sit in the drawer and mock me until I get it out and re-size  refit, refine it until I get it right.  This McCall's 5787 pattern I made back in 2011 was ok, a little to big in the shoulders and a little to tight around my hips.  So I decided it needed to be redone and fit for ME!

McCall's 5787 Pattern 

 Too big in the shoulders, tight across  the chest, hips a little snug.

 The top looks a lot better on my dress form.

Back view

Remade the pattern in this fabric I had laying around.  I really like it now, the fit is perfect!  The only problem is that the kids say this top looks like a mugged it from a CLOWN!

I am working on a dress now, I am using Simplicity 1797.  I am using a orange floral print sheet as a muslin, I found a beautiful floral print drape set.  I am thinking this is going to be sooooooo cute.  More soon.

Until next time.....

Bonnie

Increasing Sleeve Size

As I've previously mentioned, I love Nancy Zieman's Fitting Finesse Book.  I  think it is one of the easiest methods to follow to increase pattern sizes.

F

Sleeves are one of the things that seem to always be too tight on me.  Measure your upper arm then add 2" for fitting ease. My upper arm measures 19" + 2" = 21".  The pattern measures 19" at the underarm between the stitching lines. So I will need to ad 2" to the adjusted pattern.

 Lay pattern on a piece of large paper.  I use brown kraft paper.  Smooth pattern out and pin down. I have a cardboard cutting mat under mine.

 Trace around sleeve pattern with one color marker.  

 Mark increase out from the cutting line.  Since there are 4 cut edges and I need to increase 2", each cut side will be increased 1/2".  Orange is original, green is the new increased size.

 Remove all pins.  Keep one pin in stitch line at center point.  Pivot pattern to increase mark and retrace with another color pen.  Do both sides of the sleeve this way.  Remove center pin and move entire pattern to increase line on the side.  Finish tracing to the hem line.

 This method always fits  into the armhole of the pattern so nice.

Increased sleeve above the original pattern piece. 

The pattern is still intact and undamaged and now you have a correct size sleeve for you.  Make sure you mark your new pattern pieces with markings from the original and include the pattern number.

I have used  this method many times and as long as you measure correctly, the sleeve always comes out perfect.

I am in progress of making another top.  Will show you more pictures soon.

Until next time......

Bonnie

Sewing Area Re-arranged

I just recently got a little cleaning bug and re-arranged my sewing area.  I had hoped to make more room to sew but sometimes things don't work out like that.  I have very happy about my new arrangement.  I am able to get in and out of the sewing machine much easier.  I only have about a 6 foot by 5 foot area.  Talk about small!

 Old view of sewing area.  I had to squeeze between the table and the ironing board.
I felt the doors open wasted alot of space I could be using. The three drawer plastic thing on the left was a catch all from the kitchen. (pens, papers, pictures).  I added a smaller one on top so the kids couldn't put stuff on it!

 Nothing has changed here.  I still keep all my patterns in this dresser.  I did go through them and clean them up and weed out the ones I didn't plan on making ever! I have the patterns organized: top drawer- Dresses (me), second drawer-Tops (me), third drawer-Outfits (me), fourth drawer-Anything for Girl M, Bottom drawer-Coats/Jackets, Sleepwear/Under garments, and Pants/Shorts Patterns for (me).  I further organized each drawer by maker and pattern number.  Sometimes I'm just nerdy like that!

My junk area.  No matter how much I cleaned at it, it was a catch all. It's now gone!  I have a small computer desk there now and I get to work from home!

New re-arranged work area

I removed the door off the cabinet.  I used a tension rod on the left to hold my paper patterns. I sorted all my spools of threads in the rubbermaid container on the left.  I like having all my thread where I can reach it easily.

I moved the sewing table to the right.  I had a 5' folding table and I put a piece of plywood on top to make it a little sturdier.  I also made a hanging lamp so I could use my Ott-light bulb.

I put a cork board up to tack up my pattern directions.  I use one end of the table for ironing.  Since this table is a little wider, having the sewing machine back to back with the serger is not so tight.

I covered the table with a piece of black fabric so that it looked a little more uniformed.

Boy T is 19 and was just hired on with the State.  I really could use his room for a sewing/craft room but he tells me he's NOT moving out.  He says he has it made here!  I don't want him to go but I sure could use my own space!

I have some exciting items I want to sew this month.

1.  A pink scoop neck/a-line dress

2. a kimono over-top in a green fabric with pink embroidery

3.  summer tops

4. curtains for Girl M's windows

5. Another dress

6.  Girl M some summer tops

7.  Maybe try a pair of capri or shorts for me.....

Until next time.....

Bonnie

What I made in February

I only made three items in the month of February. I took my time and made a muslin for one of them so does that really make it 4 items?

I'm proud I took my time.  I used my serger more and I did ALOT of pressing.  I do think that these items will get a lot of wear.

I am excited about spring!  I have tomato seeds planted in my window sills.  We planted our garden with peas, beans, green squash, cucumbers, eggplants, wax beans and we transplanted some tomato plants out there too.

I have two hens setting on eggs.  They should be ready about the 21st of March (That's my birthday)!  My very own present to me!

Happy Spring & Happy March

Until next time......

Bonnie

Butterick 5764 Knit Maxi Dress

Butterick 5764 Knit Maxi Dress

Self teaching is a scary thing sometimes.  I wish I lived in a larger city where I could take sewing classes from a professional.  Instead I use the Professional Internet!  I remember learning to sew and I would have to go to the library to check out a book to learn or understanding a sewing step.  Now all I have to do is GOOGLE it!

I'm still not comfortable with sewing with knits but at least my latest project turned out pretty good.  It is going to get a lot of wear and I think I will look for more knit patterns but just not with the cross over front or the wrap front style.  Being busty I always have trouble with gaping.  I know I'll find the perfect pattern out there soon.

The Butterick 5764 Maxi Dress was easy to sew and the directions were simple.  I heard that the facings on knit dresses were useless but since this one had a wrap front I thought that the facing would give it some stability.  I didn't use facing on the arm holes.  I just turned the seam allowance under and stitched.  They turned out pretty nice.

I did a lot of test sewing on scrap fabrics to adjust tension, test needles and also to test interfacing.  I'm glad I had some scraps left over.

Knits patterns seem to run a little big.  I did not make any adjustments to the pattern.  I usually have to do a FBA (full bust adjustment) and a pretty good size hip increase.  But I just used the pattern as is and cut the skirt fabric a size larger.

I like to use washers in place of pins when I cut out my pattern.  I had to use washers to keep the fabric from pulling off the end of the table.

I saw a tip to use clothespins to keep your fabric together.  What a genius idea!

I serged the facing on the unnotched side and sewed to the dress front with a regular machine.

Sewing the bottom hem.  I tried to use my twin needle but decided to just to a regular single stitch.

I am going to have to work on some bolero jackets/shrugs to go with this.  I looks pretty good on but I think it looks GREAT on my dummy.

I'm trying to decide if I want to work on a shirt dress next or the bolero jackets or a top.  So many choices!\

Until next time......

Bonnie

New Look 6485 Tunic Top

I've gotten the sewing bug slowly, but at least I got it back!

I thought that I would try this New Look 6485 Pattern.  View C.  I have had this pattern for a while and I noticed that another New Look pattern I have and this one have the exact same top front and back piece.  I am thinking I am on to something here.

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New Look 6485 

 Fabric from www.FabricMartFabrics.com; a linen cotton type fabric.

I tried to take my time.  I surged all the seams prior to sewing them.  The fabric wanted to fray some on the cut end.  

I seems when I sew I can't wait to finish.  I will get in a hurry and just jump from one step to the next.  This time I took my time and tried to enjoy the steps.  

 I have used this book: Fitting Finesse by Nancy Zieman quiet a few times.  The directions are easy to follow and easy to understand.  I always doubt my measuring and making a paper template but 99.9% of the time it always comes out great!  I had to increase the pattern hip measurements alot.

As I have told you I am plus size.  My hips measure 58".  I increased the pattern by 10".  Talk about an hourglass figure!  I also had to increase the sleeve measurement but only by 4".

 New Look 6485 Tunic Top View C Finished

 Back view of Tunic Top

I made a thread button loop on the back.  Thank goodness for the Internet & online tutorials.  It was not as hard as I had thought so now I  think I'm a pro at making thread button loops!

Side View of Tunic Top, showing shoulder, sleeve set & stitching of front & facing.

This pattern was easy to follow and I liked that it was something a little different.  While I was watching QVC this morning I saw they had numerous tops similar to this pattern.  Now I have a million ideas for this pattern.

Also I saw a maxi dress & bolero jacket on there this morning too. So now I have to try that!

On my table now is Butterick 5764.  It's for a maxi dress with knit fabric.  I am not too sure of a maxi dress with my size but I'm willing to give it a try.  I can always shorten it.  Also I've done some online reading on working with knits.  

They scare me!

But I'm going to keep working at it!

The fabric was another Fabric Mart purchase.  It's a zebra/tribal print in black & white.

Until next time................

Bonnie

McCall's 3735

I've always loved vintage patterns, sometimes the pattern pieces are easier and simple, nothing too complicated.  I have been looking for a simple summer sundress.  Being a plus size I have to wear a bra so I have to be careful with the top & straps.  I found this McCall's 3735 pattern in my stash.  It's a 1988, I know that's really not a vintage but when I think about it, I was only in the 8th grade when this pattern came out!

I really don't know why I kept this pattern, maybe for a swimsuit cover-up in "B", but I'm not sure.  View "C" caught my eye because it had pockets and a gathered type waist.

Well, I think this may be my "Summer Staple Dress".  It's ALOT better than the picture!

I did make a muslin that I'll wear around the house.  The chest area is a little big, not too much but enough that in the final I took in 1/2".  I also shortened the final dress.  (A little too much but I fixed that too!)  In the final dress I cut the front piece on the fold so there would not be a center seam.  I didn't like it going down the middle of my chest.

I loved the way the belt attached to a piece of elastic under the bust then tied in the back.  This dress has pockets that are hidden in the side seams.  I really like them.

I made the dress as directed for the muslin with a neck facing and facing for the armholes.  I did not like the armhole facings at all.  The final dress has bias binding made from the same fabric for the armholes and I made the neck facing as directed.  Much smoother finish and not as fussy.

I added a 4" piece of bias cut fabric and piping along the bottom.  I did cut the dress a little too short.  As long as I was standing up it was fine, just at my knees, but if I were to bend over or sit it was way up in the back.  I think I did a marvelous job of fixing my oops!

I also think that shortening the dress made it look a little more modern.  The muslin had the dress mid calf, which was more like a night gown.

Side view

Rear View

I think I have gotten my sewing mojo back so I hope to be back to posting more sewing again.

Until next time......

Bonnie