A blog about my adventures in sewing & crafting

Friday, August 5, 2016

Is It OK to Put Darts in A Knit Pencil Skirt? Simplicity 1072

I am in the process of making a knit pencil skirt.  I started by using the Simplicity 1072 skirt pattern.  After comparing measurements of myself to the pattern I think I should just draft my own since my waist is 19" smaller than my hips!

Simplicity 1072

Having 4+" curve from my waist to my hips is too much.  I thought that adding 4-1" darts in the back would help with the severe curve amount.

I added 1" height at  center back waist for my ample rear.

I now know why I wear flared and circle skirts.  But, I wanted a slimmer silhouette skirt and I will  have to make it work for my curves.

Elastic waist is a must with the hip/waist difference.  It looks pretty good on the dressform.

Simplicity 1072 Black Ponte Knit

Me, the camera, tripod & timer again!  I like the look of the skirt from the front, Not too bad.

Simplicity 1072 Skirt

What's happening here?  How do I get rid of the flare under my bum and belly?  Since the front view looks ok, would tapering the side seams make it look too fitted?

Side View

I'm thinking of lengthening the skirt by another inch or two.  I don't like my chubby knees showing.
PS. I never wear my shirts up there!

Back View
 I look lumpy!

The skirt took only 1 yard  + 12" of fabric.

Would adding a center back seam help with the flare under my bum?  Maybe even a kick pleat on the next version.

I have decided that I need to do a FBA (full butt & belly adjustment)!  That's a fun one!  I have seen where you split the pattern from hip to hip, hinging at the side seams adding fullness at the rump & belly.

I'll work on it and let you know.

Until next time..............

Bonnie


6 comments:

  1. I am far from knowing what to do with fit issues and really curious to see how you rectify this. From full front and back view it looks to be nicely tapered. From the side, it looks like you could use a little more length in center front and center back...at least that is how I see it in the pic. Pull it down in CF and CB at the waist to see if the flare goes away. Good luck...keep us posted how you fix it.

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    1. It's funny how much I hate my picture taken but I am so glad I set up the camera on the tripod for this skirt. I am working on the pattern to fit my belly & bum, will keep you updated!

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  2. Hi. I wanted to say that the colors you've chosen for the outfit look terrific with your coloring. As for skirt fit, I took a great class at Craftsy on fit (Sarah Veblen?) where the approach is to sew a muslin--but first you draw all kinds of anchoring lines both vertical and horizontal. when you try on the muslin, you slice along lines and add/subtract fabric to get the lines both vertical and parallel to the floor. that's the best way I know to see what to do. It can be very eye-opening! and yes, you might be right to add a back seam and bring in the back below the bum just a bit. good luck!

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    1. Thank you for the kind comments. I will look into the Craftsy class, thanks for the info. I've been working on adjusting the pattern so maybe with my next version I'll have a better outcome!

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  3. Hi. I wanted to say that the colors you've chosen for the outfit look terrific with your coloring. As for skirt fit, I took a great class at Craftsy on fit (Sarah Veblen?) where the approach is to sew a muslin--but first you draw all kinds of anchoring lines both vertical and horizontal. when you try on the muslin, you slice along lines and add/subtract fabric to get the lines both vertical and parallel to the floor. that's the best way I know to see what to do. It can be very eye-opening! and yes, you might be right to add a back seam and bring in the back below the bum just a bit. good luck!

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  4. Have you been able to fix the flare? I just bought this pattern today. I am apple shaped. I wonder how it will fit on me...

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