A blog about my adventures in sewing & crafting

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Increasing Sleeve Size

As I've previously mentioned, I love Nancy Zieman's Fitting Finesse Book.  I  think it is one of the easiest methods to follow to increase pattern sizes.

FFitting Finesse Nancy Zieman

Sleeves are one of the things that seem to always be too tight on me.  Measure your upper arm then add 2" for fitting ease. My upper arm measures 19" + 2" = 21".  The pattern measures 19" at the underarm between the stitching lines. So I will need to ad 2" to the adjusted pattern.

increase sleeve sewplus.blogspot.com
 Lay pattern on a piece of large paper.  I use brown kraft paper.  Smooth pattern out and pin down. I have a cardboard cutting mat under mine.

trace origional pattern to increase sleeve pattern
 Trace around sleeve pattern with one color marker.  

mark increase on pattern to increase sleeve pattern
 Mark increase out from the cutting line.  Since there are 4 cut edges and I need to increase 2", each cut side will be increased 1/2".  Orange is original, green is the new increased size.

pivot pattern to increase mark to increase sleeve width
 Remove all pins.  Keep one pin in stitch line at center point.  Pivot pattern to increase mark and retrace with another color pen.  Do both sides of the sleeve this way.  Remove center pin and move entire pattern to increase line on the side.  Finish tracing to the hem line.

pivot pattern to increase mark to increase sleeve width retrace pattern
 This method always fits  into the armhole of the pattern so nice.

increase sleeve pattern pivot slide method Sewing Finesse
Increased sleeve above the original pattern piece. 

The pattern is still intact and undamaged and now you have a correct size sleeve for you.  Make sure you mark your new pattern pieces with markings from the original and include the pattern number.

I have used  this method many times and as long as you measure correctly, the sleeve always comes out perfect.

I am in progress of making another top.  Will show you more pictures soon.

Until next time......


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