A blog about my adventures in sewing & crafting

Saturday, January 17, 2015

McCall 4922 Princess Seam Top

My dear daughter has been wanting a plaid flannel button up top to wear with tights and high boots.  Every top we found was too short on her, it wouldn't cover her rump or the hem was past her knees.

I found the McCall's 4922 pattern and I thought it would work perfect.




I made two muslins to double check my fitting.  The first muslin was out of the package.  She needed a little more room in the bust and more in the hips. I also shortened the shoulder.  Her sleeve started too low on her shoulder

McCall 4922 Princess Seam Top Muslin www.sewplus.blogspot.com
McCall 4922 First Muslin-Need more bust & less shoulder

McCall 4922 Princess Seam Top First Muslin www.sewplus.blogspot.com
McCall 4922 First Muslin-Need More Hips

McCall 4922 Princess Seam Top First Muslin sway back www.sewplus.blogspot.com
McCall 4922 First Muslin-Needs Sway Back Adjustment
 
I used my favorite pivot & slide method to add 1/4" in the bust & 1/2" in the hips on each of the 4 pattern pieces.  She also needed a sway back adjustment.

McCall 4922 Princess Seam Top Second Muslin www.sewplus.blogspot.com
McCall 4922 Second Muslin-Sway back, hips, bust & shoulders fixed


McCall 4922 Sway Back Adjustment on Pattern www.sewplus.blogspot.com
Sway Back Adjustment on Pattern
This is the first sway back adjustment I've had to make.  I pinched out the excess fabric on the first muslin and marked with pins.  I measured the pinch out.  It measured 1" at the fullest.  On my back pattern I pinched out 1" tapering to nothing at the side back piece.  I made this adjustment go through the pattern back and back side pieces of the pattern (Like a large dart going horizontal).   You will have to re-true up the center back pattern piece.
McCall 4922 Shoulder Adjustment on Pattern www.sewplus.blogspot.com
McCall 4922 Shoulder Adjustment on Pattern
 I needed to take up her shoulder 1/2" because her sleeve started too low.  I pinched up the amount on her muslin to have her sleeve start in the correct spot.  I measured the pinched up amount and moved that amount to the paper pattern piece, taking in 1/2" at the shoulder seam, tapering to nothing at the bust area (making a shoulder dart). Making sure to do both the front and back pieces so they will match up later.

McCall 4922 Front  

McCall 4922 Back
I am hopeful that this top will get a lot of wear.  She seemed pretty happy to wear it to school this week.  I purchased a few yards of a red and white plaid flannel fabric from www.fabricmartfabric.com.  You know that place is my weakness.

I'm thinking of surprising her with a jacket.  Let's see how this goes!

Until next time....................


Bonnie

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